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The weekend queues at Vancouver’s definitive ramen house move quickly. Aim for a prime counter seat rather than one of the few tables if you’re interested in chef’s technique. The décor may be bare, but the flavours are decidedly not. Cheap, delicious gyoza by the half-dozen are plumply satisfying, but the main event lies in the restorative soups. The miso soup is a surefire hangover solution, but any one of the shoyu or shio broths is delicious.

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