x

One wouldn’t expect a chef with Tony Marzo’s resume (including stints at Michelin-starred restaurants in London) to open an eatery along a seriously industrial stretch of East Van. But in many ways, the location reflects his deeply honest cooking. Chicken liver paté has a satiny richness that reveals sharp technique, and is served with marmalade to deepen its savoury gaminess. Sardines and salad cream on toast has a lovely sharpness to balance against richness. A brunch dish of chorizo hash features grilled summer corn and poached eggs with radiantly runny yolks (the culinary money shot). Each component on a dish of slow-cooked pork belly was sharply executed and coalesced into a greater, homier whole. Lava cake is the gold standard, its elegantly souffled edges yielding to rounded, dark-chocolate lusciousness. (Open for dinner Wednesday to Saturday brunch on weekends.)

Connect