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Diners have been packing this East Side mainstay for years, and lineups stretch out the door even on weekday evenings. The menu incorporates Taiwanese, Shanghainese, and Sichuan dishesÑan odd yet highly successful confluence of flavours. Midday sees almost every table with an order of five-spice beef and green onion rolled in Chinese pancake. Shredded pork in garlic and chili sauce is piquant and laced with enough minced garlic to drive off any post-meal conversation. Fried sliced fish in XO sauce is softly flavoured and served with snow peas and straw mushrooms. Cash only closed Wednesdays.

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