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A bright light in an uninspired strip mall produces traditional Italian baked goods like light-as-air sfogliatelle pastries, crunchy biscotti, and several varieties of cookiesÑlemon moons, baci di dama, various amarettiÑthat are almost too pretty to eat. On the savoury side: scratch-made pizzas and frozen fare from the Moccia & Urbani line.

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