Hy Aisenstat’s legendary spot still turns out one of Vancouver’s best steaks in one of the city’s authentically retro dining rooms. The colour scheme runs to black and red, and so do the main-event steaks, expertly trimmed and grilled. While the 22-ounce porterhouse may be a model of understatement, the tableside caesar salads are pungent and deep. Portraits of retired waiters line the walls those still working are all pro. The wine list favours U.S. and French reds.