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Chef Piccolo Lyytikainen marries upscale European-influenced cuisine with his Scandinavian palate at his intimate Ganges restaurant. Best way to begin is with the house salmon gravlax, a silky juniper-scented miracleÑor, for a jolt, try the herring with side shots of aquavit. Mains include roasted duck with a tangy orange and green-peppercorn sauce, char-broiled beef filet with gorgonzola, seasonal fish, and local lamb or venison. Dessert of frozen cranberries with caramel sauce is a sweet and tart finish.

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