On a downtown corner (Homer and Smithe) that’s somehow both neglected and busy, find one of the city’s most handsome eateries. The dining room sprawls over several levels, each with their own vibe, though thankfully it never feels cavernous nor corporate. The team here works under the capable (and underrated) hand of chef Marc-André Choquette, and they turn out dishes like beautifully hued rotisserie chicken, and a gorgeous crispy quail with pistachios and yogurt. The menu can veer into priceyÑthe cheapest bottle of wine is a punitive $45Ñbut they definitely deliver quality.