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Chef Yiutong Leung honed his skills in Hong Kong in exclusive private dining rooms and clubs, where refined home cooking with impeccable yet humble ingredients is considered high art. His dishes seem simple (the maraschino cherry garnishes are a testament to his earnestness), but the subtle layering of flavours is arresting. Bitter melon, tamed of its harshness, works beautifully in an omelette. Milk and egg whites are stir-fried, tossed with fresh crab meat, and dusted with finely chopped dried ham and dried seafood. Traditional pork belly with preserved mustard greens balances sweet and sour notes. The room is tiny, so reservations are an absolute must, and though menus are Chinese only, there are pictures on the wall to help with ordering. Chef Leung is well into his 70s, but his love of cooking keeps him in the kitchenÑget there before he hangs up his apron for good.

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