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The place, in a kiosk on the upper level of the Robson Public Market, has a Dawn of the Dead vibe, but it also follows that ol’ cheap-eats dictum that the more fluorescent the lighting, the better the grub. The thin but firm noodles, which maintain that all-important delicate snap, are made in-house, and the ratio of noodles to cha-shu is liberally calibratedÑthe owner used to run the fine Niku-ya Meats butchery in Richmond before turning it over to his son. The broths go beyond the typical offerings and include natural rock salt (a clean, bright flavour), white sesame, and tomato. On fair days, retreat to the small outdoor terrace.

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