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A light-industrial park in the northeast corner of Richmond is a strange location for a fine-dining establishment (but makes a convenient stop after shopping at the Richmond Night Market). The wine list and décor are a step above your average bright-light Chinese room. Forgo the meatballs and lingonberry on your next trip to Ikea and, instead, have a glass of wine and some salt bake chicken (must be preordered). The cooking is skillful and refined. The inexpensive lunch specials offer real value.

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