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Now home to executive chef Nicholas Lim, the North Shore arm of the Corsi family’s Quattro group gets better with age. Expect fairly priced and thoughtful appetizers like grilled bocconcini wrapped with prosciutto and radicchio, leading into dependable main courses, some with portions that would befuddle Weight Watchers. Pastas are consistently excellent, as is the service. The wine list might well be the best on the North ShoreÑItaly is well represented and several are offered by the glass.

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