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This is Chinese food the way Indian people eat it. On weekend nights, Indo-Canadian families line up and squeeze in for a taste of home. Just as Chinese immigrants to Canada tailored local ingredients to suit their palates (and created Chinese-Canadian cuisine), India’s Chinese immigrants infused their recipes with Indian spices and heat. The result is dishes like gobi Manchurian: crispy battered cauliflower with a sauce of chilies, onions, and cumin. Sinus-clearing green beans and dumplings are terrific washed down with a cold one, or green tea. Always busy, but usually a short wait for tables.

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