Dark woods, daffodil-coloured walls, and a streetside patio with flowerboxes make for a cosy environment where friendly servers greet guests by name and the uncomplicated West Coast fare really satisfies. Chef Dennis Huang keeps his regulars happy with progressive takes on comfort classics like the Gramercy seafood bowl, piled high with fresh shellfish. Weekend brunch brings a smoked-salmon scramble with fried capers.