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With a few exceptions (Hawksworth andÉdid we say Hawksworth?), Vancouver has never been much of a hotel restaurant city. And while some chains continue to throw around wheelbarrows of money to lure diners up an escalator to their temple of dining, sometimes the best course is to simply stop trying to be great and settle for good. Grain, in the Hyatt, is never going to contend for Restaurant of the Year, and it’s doubtful that it’s even trying toÑbut instead it turns a central location overlooking the bustle of Burrard into a casual place with solid food at prices that won’t offend. The menu is heavy on cured meat and small plates and it’s just as ambitious as it should be. The wine list is all B.C. and hotel priced.

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