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With a change in ownership and management from the old Super Happiness team, and a kitchen helmed by the previous sous chef, this neighborhood gem has regained much of its original lustre. The chui chow duck, gently poached in an anise-scented soy braise, and the salt-baked chicken (which must be pre-ordered) cooked in a clay pot (to simulate a clay oven) are both stellar. The Dungeness crab with ginger, scallions and supreme soy sauce is still a must-have. Service nicely balances professionalism with friendly banter.

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