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Hong Kong-style Chinese food focuses on the dish’s key ingredient. The skill is in concentrating and bringing forward the natural flavours without calling undue attention to the method or the accoutrements. This elegant little room turns out some of the most sought-after Hong Kong-style Chinese food in Metro Vancouver, best seen in dishes like fresh oysters that are air-dried to concentrate their natural mineral brininess and then pan-fried with a touch of sweet soy or sole two ways, stir-fried with seasonal greens, the bones deep-fried to a cracker-like crunch. No need to feel guilty succumbing to the pleasures of the sweet-and-sour pork, which achieves the ideal balance of succulence and brightness.

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