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Loud and more than a little unruly, Golden Ocean transports the spirit of old Chinatown into the heart of tony Kerrisdale. The dim sum lunch is particularly boisterous, with neighbourhood soccer moms, Hong Kong expat families, and Chinese food lovers of all stripes competing for tables. One of the last places in the city to offer full dim sum cart service, it features all the classics, with black-bean chicken feet, pan-fried dumplings, and deep-fried taro puffs particularly well done. The dinner atmosphere is more sedate. Look for specials that may include lush red braised tofu, and glistening honey garlic spare ribs.

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