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Salmon tacos might sound the alarm for traditionalists, but at this False Creek seafood shack on the western approach to Granville Island, they’re very good. A construct of smoky tortilla, grilled wild salmon, chipotle crema and fresh salsa, they’re still redolent of the sea. They should be: the fisherman who caught the main ingredient berths beside the restaurant’s year-round patio. Granville Island beer tempura-battered cod (or halibut or salmon) and chips are the city’s best, and simple grilled seafood (order an extra side of the tangy tartare sauce) are well worth the salty seawall walk. Unlicensed, and the weekend lines can be fierce.

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