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The evolution of Main Street takes a nice turn away from hip with this room, which serves classic bistro fare (escargots, onion soup, steak frites, duck confit cassoulet), reasonably priced, in a space that’s relaxed and commodious. The wine list is especially enticing if you love Burgundy. Proprietor Hervé Martin, who has serious French pedigree (Troisgros brothers, Paul Bocuse), runs front of house and is happy to explain exactly how they cook the coq au vin or to demonstrate the durability of the lovely Bopla! china he brought with him from The Hermitage. Until, that is, the phone rings, he excuses himself, and with a proper ÒAll™,Ó takes a reservation (pencil and big black bookÑno Open Table software here). A bistro that’s the real deal, and just what this part of town needed.

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