A meal at Forage is not just a celebration of the local larderÑthough there’s plenty to love in a seasonally changing menu divided into sections such as Land, Sea, and Soil. Forage is also a case study for the way forward: this is a hotel restaurant that must serve two meals per day, seven days a week, to accommodate tourists, yet commits to an ambitious energy-saving and waste-reduction program, and gives its chef freedom to create intriguing, complex dishes. Impressive indeed.