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This massive eatery seats up to 1,000 people. The last of Chinatown’s dim sum palaces, Floata offers a huge lunch menu that ranges from well-made classics (steamed rice rolls and shrimp dumplings) to more daring fare (jellyfish and pig’s trotters). Deep-fried wontons are light and crisp, and come with a drizzle of sweet and sour. Try the moist steamed sponge cake (locals always choose the edge pieces). The clientele is an animated mix of Chinatown old-timers, tourists, and local businesspeople. Service is efficient, but good-natured and friendly, too.

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