Don’t be thrown by the Aberdeen Centre location: reservations are a must if you hope to snag a seat at one of Richmond’s most popular Hong Kong-style dim sum spots. Chef Tony Wong presides over a bustling kitchen that runs full tilt to keep up with the steady demand. His signature har gowÑperfectly steamed rice-flour dumplings filled with plump prawnsÑare stellar. Taro dumplings are deep-fried to lacy crispness, while baked cha shao su (barbecue-pork pastries) are light, flaky, and delicately sweet. Dinner is decidedly spendy heavy-hitting dishes include geoduck served either blanched or sautéed, and spicy ÒAberdeen-styleÓ Dungeness crab studded with fried garlic, black beans, shallots, and chilies.