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Top Chef notable Trevor Bird packs ’em in with a concise seasonal menu that keeps it real on the price point: gnocchi gussied up with parmesan-crusted chicken in cashew-tomato sauce is a reasonable $18, and a lovely steelhead trout is $25. While some entrees skirt the $30 mark, the place never feels pricey, just casual, jocular, and relaxed. The wine list is good because it doesn’t overreach, favouring the interesting over the obscure and keeping the mark-up fair.

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