A small (as it should be) tapas joint that finally gave Denman Street something it needed: one more excellent room that serves food late, offers an intriguing wine and sherry list, and sends truly excellent dishesÑIberian ham croquettes, smoked sardines, a daily paellaÑflying out of the kitchen. Chef Neil Taylor’s broad interpretation of Spanish cuisine means you could see Middle Eastern and North African influences, too.