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Swimming against the Neapolitan tide that’s swept through the city, Don’t Argue! instead celebrates the American pie, with a style closest to New York: nicely chewy, but with a welcome crunch. A standout is the Pesto Ricotta with housemade basil/rocket pesto, ricotta, mozzarella, and fresh basil on a bechamel base. Sausage Kale is also a winner, as is the Margherita, with its creamy fior di latte and brightly acidic tomato sauce. Décor is hipster-minimal, with benches lining the walls and pizza-making in view. Be sure to play the best-stocked jukebox in town. Small craft beer and wine selections on tap, and free sparkling water. Slices available at less busy hours.

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