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There’s a deep grilling culture in the Chinese provinces of Xi’an and Sichuan, influenced by Muslim Uyghurs, where meats are rubbed with cumin and chilies and cooked over charcoal braziers. At Chuan Ku, the lamb, chicken, and pork skewers are moist, and whole grilled quail delivers juicy meatiness with every bite. Lamb ribs are rubbed with a sweet sauce and hot spices before being chargrilled to glorious succulence. Brightly vinegared side dishes balance heat and spice Sichuan pickles and a wasabi-tinged wood-ear mushroom salad are standouts. As for beverages, chilled sour plum tea is traditional, but we find beer the perfect cooling yin to the spicy yang of grilled foods.