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Billed as Òmodern Peruvian tapas,Ó this 40-seater from former Bin 941/942 chefs Shelome Bouvette and Allison Flook is a category pioneer. In a buzzy, energetic room whose décor gives few clues as to the experience in store, approachable street-level dishes arrive impressively fast: cassava fries with spicy huanca’na sauce (traditionally thickened with saltines, but with bread here) classic ceviche with lime, cilantro, and corn antichucho skewers, smoky from the grill causa potatoes and empanadas in flaky crust with savoury chicken filling. Here’s a menu of nailed flavours and innovations that rarely draw attention to themselvesÑdelicious and unpretentious.

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