Mario Enero’s family-friendly room offers solid value. A popular appetizer is the grilled squid with olive oil, garlic, and lemon. Reasonably priced pastas (spaghetti polpette and housemade meatballs recommended) and pizzas (order the La Rœa, topped with spinach, roasted Roma tomatoes, garlic, and asiago). But the main events here are spit-roasted free-range chicken or leg of lamb (though local experts swear by the country-style pot roast braised in red wine and served with root vegetables).