Popular lunch specials ensure brisk business during the midday rush, but dinner hour shows off the full breadth of chef/owner Etsuko Needham’s Òneo JaponesqueÓ approach to sushi and izakaya. Patio seats are prime spots for Yaletown people-watching while sampling from Bistro Sakana’s premium sakes by the glass. Signature plates include black-sesame albacore with yuzu sauce, delicately flavoured ume-shiso smelt, and shiro miso toro aburi (the fish is lightly torched using Japanese charcoal). Fusion influences are evident in dishes like the capresé roll, a combination of scallops, basil pesto, tomato, and mozzarella drizzled with olive oil and an aged balsamic reduction.