In summertime the bistro is open to the sidewalk in winter guests cosy around the fireplace, and Parisian owner John Blakeley plus the buzzy room’s artfully canted mirrors keep things Right Bank chic rather than Left Bank casual. Sip Ricard while you mull over the menu of elegant comfort food. Try the housemade bacon, cheese, and caramelized-onion tart with arugula salad, and the steak frites with peppercorn sauce (or béarnaise, if you prefer). Daily specials are a reliable pick, like Tuesday’s coq au vin and Saturday’s boeuf bourguignon.