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A for effort. PICA is adjunct to a culinary school and offers the hook of catching the next Rob Feenies on their way up—your food is prepared and served by the institute’s students under the watchful care of chef Julian Bond. The result blends genius with the mundane. Lunch and dinner are best enjoyed in three-course prix fixe mode, with prices nicely in step with the apprentice atmosphere. The menu changes weekly, and reservations are a must.

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