Many of B.C.’s most formidable talents have toiled at this venerable Kitsilano eatery over the past 25 years, with several moving on to change the way we dine here (Vikram Vij and Michael Allemeier, to name just two). Owner John Bishop added another to this crowded pantheon with the excellent Ron Shaw, who continues the restaurant’s tradition of using locally sourced ingredients. Service, the province of omnipresent Abel Jacinto, never misses a beat, while the wine list is full of hard-to-find local labels. The menu changes often to reflect what’s in season.