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An expansive menu covers food from Tierra del Fuego to the Darien Gap, which means there’s a lack of focus but a surplus of choices. Some of the best include three kinds of ceviche (Baru, Ecuadorian, and Mexican), the ominously named Cartegena-crusted halibut (the crusting is plantain chips), and sancochito, traditional Colombian chicken soup with cheese and chorizo. The wine list features too high a mark-up for a neighbourhood spot, but the Red Truck beer is always cold.

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