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Dinner as channelled through a Henry James novel. Everything here is classic, from the room’s heavy wood décor to the impeccable service to the real live chap tickling the ivories. The food rises to the occasion: nothing genre-busting, but everything is exceptionally sourced and prepared, from grilled wild salmon to rack of lamb with tarragon jus. Not the spot for a light dinner, but if you’ve just closed a deal or are celebrating a 25th anniversary, they have you covered.

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