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In this polished big sister to boisterous Atlas Café, the kitchen’s talents soar with dishes that highlight local farms, fish, and the seasons. Briny oysters from nearby Cortez and Denman islands, and cod fritters with piperade and crispy fried sage are great starters. Hearty mains of Glen Alwin lamb ragout over pappardelle with homemade ricotta and mint, or Pacific bourride with ling cod, sidestripe shrimp, clams, leeks, and nugget potatoes in a basil aioli-enriched broth, are expertly wrought. The wine list has good B.C. representation, and the friendly staff is well versed in pairing. Weekend Benny brunches on the sun-filled patio are popular.

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