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On a cold, drizzly Vancouver day, a visit to this little gem is like slipping on a flannel shirt. The rich, red tomato beef stew with carrots, tinged with star anise and served with perfectly fluffy rice, will cure whatever ails you. The adored b‡nh m“ sandwiches marry astonishingly crusty baguettes with savoury Vietnamese meats and cold cuts spiked with pickled daikon and sliced jalape–os. (They sell out quickly on weekends.) The Tlinhs are the most charming restaurant family you are likely to meet with unfailing politeness and genuine warmth, they make every visit a treat.

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