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An old-school room that’s been a regular haunt for traditional Italian food on the Drive for more than 25 years. The gamberi piccanti is neatly spiced, and the porcini base to the fettuccine al funghetto is robust, almost beefy. If it’s in season, go for the rombo al radicchio (halibut with radicchio and tangy white sauce), a chiffonade of radicchio, perfectly prepared fish, and a side of roast potatoes and vegetables.

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