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The nondescript location (in a drab strip mall) of this family-run restaurant belies the solidly executed Cambodian dishes. Beef ball rice noodle soup with rare sliced beef is clean and light, while the bright herbed tartness of green papaya salad offsets the garlicky crunch of deep-fried chicken wings. Hai Nam chicken rice reflects the influx of Chinese immigrants to CambodiaÑthe meat is simply poached and served with a ginger-chili puree. For a softly sweet finish, try the bananas and tapioca in coconut milk.

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