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Tucked away along the quiet corridor of a retail plaza, Ajisai is worth seeking out for its deftly executed traditional fare. There’s often a lineup for one of the 30-or-so seats at this pocket-sized restaurant, but the exquisitely fresh sushi and sashimi are more than wait-worthy. Pique your palate with the tartness of an ume shiso roll, and follow up with the smoky sweetness of unagi battera (barbecued eel sushi comes pressed, Osaka-style). The absence of a hot kitchen forces creativityÑcorn flakes rather than batter add crunch to the crispy tuna roll. Closed Mondays.

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