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One of the curses of being a new city is our habit of glorifying the food staples of older cities when they finally arrive on our shores. Like the time a simple red-sauce joint was named Restaurant of the Year. I fear Mensch may be the latest victim of our over-elevation. It’s not that it’s not good: owner Nitzan Cohen lovingly labours over his pastrami, brining it, then smoking it, then slicing it nice and thick for sandwiches that come either with just mustard for $16 (plus tax) or in a Reuben for $18. It’s the best pastrami sandwich in town, but at those prices it should be. Would it pass muster in Montreal? I doubt it at that price point, but for right here, right now, it’s worth a visit for those with big hunger and deep pockets.

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