Rebecca Matthews, owner of Kits Point post-work mecca Corduroy, has imported that restaurant’s defining characteristics—a concise menu, a minimally appointed room, a pointed lack of pretension—to a small storefront just east of Cambie Village. Corduroy Pie Company’s name lays bare its focus: pizza. Roughly a dozen pies (including rotating specials), plus four beer selections and eight wines by the glass. The End. (A full bar is available, but cocktails were still in development when we visited.)
If not for the oven (left over from former tenant Rebellious Tomato), you might think this is simply a bar, but the room—reminiscent of Memphis Blues but with fewer wall tchotchkes—began filling up with grateful neighbourhood families while we tore into our grub. Partner Graham Marceau is on top of things in the kitchen, having had a hand in the offerings at Bufala and Pizzeria Farina. We especially enjoyed a funky marriage of bacon, Brussels sprouts, capers, and an action painting of chili aioli, while a four-cheese pie (with fresh and smoked mozzarella, provolone, and goat cheese) was a model of simplicity. We hobbled out full, with a box of leftovers, having paid less than we expected. This crowd-pleaser is on the right track.