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The formerly cavernous Vancouver Urban Winery has been rebranded as the Settlement Building and carved up into a number of duchies—including Postmark Brewing—but its anchor is Belgard Kitchen, set up smack in the middle of it all. The ceilings still soar, but it now feels infinitely more welcoming and alive, and the tight menu of share plates (charcuterie, salads, seared scallops with braised pork belly, meatballs) is in sync with the relaxed vibe. Wine remains a justifiably major draw, and if you can’t find something on tap here that suits your taste, you probably should get over yourself.

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