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If a restaurant proclaims itself to be The Spring Roll Special House Inc., it had better be on its A-game. Bao Chau’s deep-fried spring rolls don’t disappoint the blistered and crisp cha gio cuon are packed with minced pork, rice vermicelli, and shredded carrots. Rice vermicelli bowls offer numerous try-it-all-at-once options. No. 36 on the menu is heaped-high porcine goodness: shredded barbecued pork, spring rolls, and grilled garlicky Vietnamese sausage with a smattering of julienned carrots, cucumber, and bean sprouts.

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