Winery dining in the South Okanagan follows a strict (and lovely) template: city refugee plates sumptuous dishes built from local produce and proteins in a soaring room that owes a debt to either the Spanish or Pottery Barn. It ain’t broke please don’t fix. But a change of pace is always welcome. At this fine-dining nook in downtown Osoyoos’s lakefront Watermark, Adair Scott creates flavour-rich tapas in the tiniest kitchen imaginable, lifting bar snacks to rarefied, still-local heights (sliders are beef brisket, barbecue chicken comes sesame-marinated with miso and shiso ginger aioli). Nothing is over $18, though with this creative intelligence on tap, just settle into the chef’s menu of charcuterie and local cheeses, of course with matching area wines.