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This out-of-the-way mecca for discerning drinkers is managed by the incomparable Danielle Tatarin, whose advanced cocktail program is rightly considered one of the city’s best. The patio (with fire pit) is perfect for late-night people-watching. The chic-yet-seedy inside always feels like the centre of the action. Go for The Lost Orient Sour, with mezcal, sake, black sesame syrup, egg white, and atomized sesame.

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