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Watching this off-Granville spot evolve has been a pleasure. Small (40 seats, half at the bar), atmospheric (its woodsy design comes courtesy Evoke, the firm behind such beauties as Heirloom and The Union), long on charcuterie and wine—it’s been a bright light on a somewhat dim stretch, and has only grown more luminous with the addition of chef Carlos Rodriguez, formerly of Hawksworth. Meat and cheese boards are still available, but the menus lean more nowadays to small and medium share plates (arctic char tartare, roasted carrots with burrata and buckwheat). It’s the kind of after-theatre spot where drinks get conversation flowing (note: a second happy hour after 9 p.m.!), but the nightly food specials occasion as much discussion as that evening’s play.

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