Set in a historic former hotel overlooking picturesque Cowichan Bay, the Masthead could easily have trolled for tourist dollars serving fish and chips. Instead, this seafood restaurant pays attention to local ingredients and sustainable seafood with chef Martin Harrison at the helm. Begin on the half-shell with fresh oysters, then segue to the weathervane scallops seared in a beurre noisette and served over mascarpone risotto. A main of flat-iron bison steak is substantial and uncomplicated fare, served alongside the local duck-fat-roasted potatoes.