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This room could have been predictably pulled together (with its captive Granville Street crowd), but instead, the Glowbal Group delivered a fresh spin on an old-school seafood joint serving oysters from both coasts, fresh-sheet fish that’s blackened or grilled and served with fries and coleslaw, steamers of mussels and clams, and crispy-battered fish ’n’ chips. Full-size wooden pallets tile the double-height walls (and the roof, too, in its loft) chalk drawings of fish on offer make for practical decoration. A happy bell gets clanged whenever the bartender feels so inclined. The design takes liberty with enormous scale but it retains an intimate character. It seems to say, “Come, eat, party.”

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