Italians are great at so many things, but with the exception of the negroni, making cocktails ain’t one of them. Yet somehow this mash-up—well executed drinks and affordable, rustic Italian food—seems to work. Don’t expect note-perfect regional cuisine here: this is Italian food made—and, thankfully, priced—the way it used to be. They call it a meatball bar, which is an apt handle, and it steers you toward the menu’s star attraction. Steady crowds and high ceilings make this place feel alive in a Yaletown sort of way.