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The space is pretty enough: the usual wood beam/iron chandelier/stone tile appurtenances filling out the usual soaring cathedral-like volume. But the real dazzle is on the plate. Chef Jenna Pillon is all over area supplies, with produce from nearby Covert Farms and Harker’s Organics taking star seasonal turns on a menu inspired by the rustic cooking of Tuscany that elevates humble ingredients to heights of rarefied simplicity. Pizzas are front and centre here, crisp and bubbly from the oven, though any slow-cooked meats on special should be snapped up. Hester Creek wines have taken a big jump in quality thanks to the arrival of winemaker Robert Summers, long of Peller Estates.

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